Onda is doing coastal Italian in 12 South with enough sincerity that the comparison to sitting somewhere on the Amalfi actually lands rather than feeling like marketing copy. The pasta is properly made. The wood-fired preparations — proteins and vegetables that benefit from char and smoke — are the kitchen's strongest move. The wine list tilts Italian and tilts interesting, which is the correct combination.
The room has warmth without trying too hard, and the 12 South location keeps it from being an occasion-only destination. This is a restaurant you'd return to on a Tuesday, which in Nashville's Italian dining landscape is a meaningful distinction.
The pasta is the anchor. Wood-fired preparations add smoke and char. A wine list that skews Italian and interesting. The right room for a long dinner.