Sperry's Cool Springs

Review

About

Sperry's Cool Springs is not Sperry's Belle Meade. The Belle Meade location has dark wood, booth seating, a room with decades of character behind it. Cool Springs has a strip mall, no windows, and the specific energy of a restaurant that opened because the brand had equity to spend.

The steaks are fine — cooked correctly, nothing more. The rest of the menu doesn't hold up. The beef Wellington that made Sperry's worth knowing about doesn't travel as well to this location as the brand assumes. The room does none of the work that the original room does.

The Belle Meade location has a room and a legacy. This one has a parking lot and the same menu. The steaks are acceptable. The rest of the food doesn't justify the trip.

Fifty years in the restaurant business is not an accident. Sperry's has been at it since 1974, serving the same beef Wellington to the same loyal customers and their children, and it has outlasted every trend that has tried to make it feel irrelevant.

The beef Wellington is the reason to come. Properly wrapped, properly cooked, with a duxelles that does its job and a pastry crust that holds together the way pastry is supposed to. It's one of those dishes that sounds retro and tastes timeless, which is probably why it's still on the menu.

The room is old Nashville in the best sense — dark wood, booth seating, the kind of space that rewards a long dinner with people you actually want to spend the evening with. The service has the kind of experience that comes from staff who have been there for years and know how to run a room.

Sperry's doesn't care what's trending. That's the whole point, and it's one of the more refreshing things a restaurant can say.

Hours

You're on the list.