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The small, chef-driven restaurant is a format that requires courage to operate and attention to appreciate. etc is that restaurant — a tight space with a tight menu and a kitchen with a clear point of view that it isn't interested in softening for mass appeal. That clarity of purpose is rare enough in Nashville's increasingly crowded dining scene that it deserves real recognition.
The menu at etc rotates with intention, driven by season, sourcing, and whatever is interesting the kitchen at any given moment. This means that what you ate on your last visit isn't necessarily what you'll find on your next one, which is either exciting or frustrating depending on your disposition. The dishes that do appear are carefully conceived — the kind of plates where you can tell someone thought about each element separately and then considered how they would work together, rather than assembling flavors by default.
Execution is strong. The kitchen shows real technique without using it as a parlor trick — the skill is in service of flavor, not display. There's an honesty to the cooking at etc that sets it apart from restaurants that substitute theatrical presentations for actual taste.
Damn Good captures etc correctly. This is a restaurant doing serious work in a city where serious work sometimes gets overlooked in favor of bigger rooms and louder concepts. Find it, eat there, and tell people about it.